Backpacking - A Camping List

!±8± Backpacking - A Camping List

I highly recommend that backpackers work from a camping list as they plan their gear purchases and pack for their trip. There are two reasons for this. The first and most obvious reason is that if you forget something important, you can't hop in the car and run to the nearest Wal-Mart to buy a replacement like you can when you're car camping (I currently own 3 propane bottles due to this phenomenon). The second and less obvious reason is that it helps you limit what you bring, which is very important when you're carrying everything on your back.

Below I'll show you my list. Granted, I'm not a thru-hiker, nor have I done 4-season backpacking, but I have done a couple 11-day treks and many shorter trips, and this is what works for me:

Shelter

Most backpackers use tents of some type. I have a Coleman Cobra small two-man tent that I use when the weather is really cold (I had dreams of being chased by a Polar Bear jumping from iceburg to iceburg one night when I tried sleeping in my hammock on night then the temperature was hovering around zero). I've found, however, that when the terrain, the rules, and the conditions allow, I prefer using a hammock. I bring the tarp for shelter over my hammock, and it has served at quick shelter for a group of nine during an intense sudden storm that came up while we were on the trail. Obviously, if you're going to be camping in very rocky terrain, you'll want a free-standing tent. If you're going to be hiking in heavy snows, you'll want a four-season tent. Here's my shelter:

Kelty Noah's Tarp 12 (I considered a 9' tarp, but to me the 9oz difference was worth it for storm protection. It's very roomy for one person. I've also shared my tarp on occasion. There are lots of tie-outs, so I have plenty of options for set-up.) 40"x96" polycryo groundcloth (very light and folds very small)
Sleeping

Ultralight fanatics would never be caught dead with anything but the absolute lightest down sleeping bags. More power to them. All of my bags are synthetic. I live in an extremely rainy area, and synthetic bags still provide loft and warmth when wet. Due to one unfortunate incident on a Scout trip, I spent a cold night in a bag after wringing it out and other than being a little clammy, was fine. Down, on the other hand, loses all loft when it's wet. Granted, there are lots of ways to keep your bag dry, but I'd rather prepare for the worst, so I suffer with a few extra ounces and a slightly bulkier bag.

Homemade hammock (I can't always use it, but it's nice when I can) 3/4 length Thermarest Guidelite (I can use this on the ground or in the hammock for bottom insulation if needed. I also use it for a "chair" on occasion.) Sleeping Bag (I have several and bring the one that's suited to the weather) Sleepwear (ranges from underwear in warm weather to silk long underwear plus wool socks and a beanie in cold weather)
Pack

Some people prefer external frame packs, some prefer internal frame packs. Here are the key differences: an external frame pack is cooler on you back and you have options on how you attach gear to the outside of the pack, but it tends to ride a little further from your back than an internal; internal frame packs ride very close to your back which really reduces load swaying, but they're hotter on your back and there are fewer options on how to carry your gear. I prefer internal frame packs, simply because I haven't found an external frame that doesn't hit the back of my head as I look up. I have a couple of packs, but my current pack is very light, since this is a good place to really trim the pounds.

Gossamer Gear G5 Hyperlight pack (I wouldn't recommend this if you are hard on gear, but I've found it to be fine for me.) Rain Cover
Water

I've heard of groups running out of water on the trail. I'll do everything in my power to make sure that doesn't happen to me or a group I'm hiking with.

Depending on the water supply in the area I'm hiking in, I will bring two Nalgenes, a four-liter Platypus water bag, and if needed, two empty one-liter club soda bottles. Note that if you're in bear country and your water bottles have ever held anything other than water (club soda is just carbonated water), they should go into the bear bag at night. The food smell permeates the plastic. Aquamira Water Treatment
Cooking/Eating

There are lots of options for lightweight high-tech stoves that are available today. I made the alcohol stove after reading an article online, and since it's pretty cool and tends to be a conversation starter (not to mention being very, very lightweight), it's what I use. Obviously if you're going into an area where you have to rely on available fuels, stick with one of the more common white gas stove or even a dual fuel stove that can also use unleaded gas.

Homemade soda can stove + windscreen Small bottle of methanol for fuel Aluminum pot (grease pot) Titanium mug Lexan spork (gotta have a spork)
Safety

Skimp on your tent, and you get wet. Skimp on your sleeping bag, and you'll be cold. Skimp on your safety equipment, and you could die.

Survival Kit (always in my pocket) First Aid Kit Lighter, "waterproof" matches, and a magnesium firestarter (there have been many cold, wet, windy nights where the magnesium turned frustration into fire) Headlamp Two Pulsar LED lights (one is always clipped to the outside of my pack) Topo map Compass (I don't need no stinkin' GPS - I will bring one, however, if there are any GeoCaches on the route I'm taking)
Accessories

Some people bring less, some bring more. I've found through experience that these are the items I use, and also those that I regret if I don't have.

Trekking Poles (they REALLY help when you're loaded down with water in rugged terrain and they can be used to pitch the tarp on the ground) Journal + pen + 2 golf pencils (I lost my pen and my backup pencil once. The pencils are very light.) Bear Bag Cord Several homemade stuff sacks Camera (I've been bringing a small digital with lithium batteries. The lithium batteries last a LONG time.) Sunscreen Bug Repellant Bandanna Toilet Paper in a freezer ziplock Plastic trowel (sometimes the ground is just too hard to kick a hole with your boot) Crocs for camp shoes Bottle of Dr. Bronner's Peppermint Soap Lightweight wide-brimmed hat Lip Balm Baking soda (for toothpaste) Compact toothbrush Small bottle of hand sanitizer Sunglasses with neck cord Watch Rain Jacket and Pants Trash Bag(s) (I normally bring two in case one gets punctured. I also compact my trash very well, so small bags work fine for me.) Duct Tape - a couple of yards wrapped around one of the Nalgenes is enough for me. Multi-tool (the pliers double as a pot lifter)
Food

Please keep your food and trash completely separate from the rest of your pack items. Gallon Ziplocks will work OK for this. You don't want your pack or gear to smell like food. Bears have excellent noses!

Two hot meals a day - oatmeal for breakfasts and variety for dinners Cold trail-type food for lunches/snacks. (Make sure you plan for plenty of calories or you're really start feeling it in the middle of your trek.)
Clothing

I'm not going to list all of the clothing I bring, because it changes significantly season-to-season. However, I think it's important to list the clothing items I pack (i.e. duplicate items):

One extra wicking t-shirt Two extra wicking underwear Two extra pairs of Smartwool socks (I know I wasn't going to get into clothing specifics, but I have to mention these. I've found the Smartwool Trekker socks to be the best for backpacking. I bring three total pairs so that I always (hopefully) have a dry pair to change into.)
Optional Items to Consider

You may think of other items you want to bring, but please remember that an ounce on your back is a pound on your feet!

Sock liners (I hate them, but some people love them. With Smartwool socks, I have no need.) Gaiters (I've never used them, but I'm sure they help keep your socks dry in foul weather. They're on my "should try" list.) Extra Ziplock/trash bags Feminine Products (Backpacking can make your cycle go wacko, so be prepared) Reading Glasses, if needed (how else are you going to read your map?) A Sharpie marker Extra glasses, especially for contact lens wearers; extra contacts; contact solution Deodorant (not recommended in bear country - you really don't want to smell interesting to bears)

If you use the above camping list as a guideline as you prepare for your next backpacking trip, you can insure that you bring what you need without carrying a lot of stuff you'll never use.

Backpacking - A Camping List

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Green Spring Cleaning Is Better For Everyone

!±8± Green Spring Cleaning Is Better For Everyone

Even though there's still over a foot of snow outside, my spring cleaning alarm went off. I spent most of yesterday doing tasks that I've neglected during my winter slump. Floors, bathrooms, dust bunny wrangling, cobweb removal and cleaning handprints from just about every vertical or horizontal surface in the house - I was a human dynamo. What's really amazing is that I accomplished it all with a broom, a dustpan, cleaning cloths, a basin and two cleaners: Dr. Bronner's Hemp-Citrus Liquid Glycerine Soap and Dr. Bronner's Sal Suds.

Unlike the toilet cleaners that are advertised on tv, Dr. Bronner's Sal Suds won't make you dizzy if you use it without ventilation. Well, I should qualify that by saying you might get a little swoony if you read the stuff he says on the label, but you can skip that. The stuff does have spruce and pine oil in it, so you won't want to drink it or take a bath in it, but it smells really nice and does a very good job of cleaning, and it wouldn't kill you if you did drink it.

For the hard water stains in the toilet bowls, I resorted to elbow grease with a pumice stone on a stick, something that I found at a local hardware store. Not only does it do a great job of removing stains, but I get some much-needed exercise too. It also sparked a conversation between my daughter and I about volcanic rock and minerals in water so it was an educational exercise too.

The Sal Suds is good for floors - wooden, vinyl or any other non-porous surface - and you can also use it for laundry, surface cleaning, washing your car or anywhere you'd use a general purpose cleaner. I use it like a laundry pre-treater to remove stains.

The Citrus Liquid Glycerine Soap smells like you just cut into an orange and it's very good for cleaning greasy dishes, but you can use it the same way you'd use any liquid soap. I keep it next to the sink and use it for handwashing, dishwashing, for washing delicate fabrics and even for counters and floors, when I'm in too much of a hurry to go get the Sal Suds that I left down in the laundry room.

Other than baking soda and white vinegar, that's the extent of my cleaning supplies. When I happen to catch a glimpse of what other people keep under their sinks, I'm amazed that they feel that they need so many cans and bottles, most of which have warning labels on them. And most of them also contain petroleum, something we're running out of and need to get away from.

If you believe the ads on tv and in magazines, your house isn't clean until it's been Swiffered, sprayed, waxed, disinfected, air freshened and slathered with enough petroleum products to equal a quart of motor oil. Why, according to the companies that make all of this, a person would have to be pretty simple to believe that a handful of non-toxic cleaners could do everything those specialized products can do.

Well, simple I may be, but I'm not stupid. All of this stuff is promoted as something that will make housework easier and faster, when in fact it makes it more complicated and time-consuming. My house is clean enough for us, not for a magazine ad. It smells clean, thanks to the Sal Suds, the Citrus Glycerine Soap and the fresh air that we let in through the open windows for a few minutes a day even in winter.

Of course, the worst part about all this is the damage all of these products are doing to us and to our environment. I feel strongly that we all need to take a good hard look at what we have under our sinks and in our bathrooms and think about whether cleaning our homes with toxic chemicals is worth our health and our planet.

Green Spring Cleaning Is Better For Everyone

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What's Lurking Under Your Sink?

!±8± What's Lurking Under Your Sink?

SEVEN STEPS THAT COULD SAVE A LIFE - WHAT'S LURKING UNDER YOUR SINK?

STEP 1: RECOGNIZE THE PROBLEM

The Consumer Product Safety Commission report that "of chemicals commonly found in the home for cleaning 150 have been linked to allergies, birth defects, cancer and psychological abnormalities. 'The National Safety Council reports that "more children under four die of accidental poisoning at home than are accidentally killed with a gun." "According to a 15-year study presented at the Toronto Indoor Air Conference, women who work at home have a 54% higher death rate from cancer than those who work away from home. The study concluded that this was a direct result of the increased exposure to toxic chemicals, many of which are found in common household products." "According to the National Institute of Occupational Safety one-third of substances used by the fragrance industry are toxic."

STEP 2: UNDERSTAND THE FACTS

A lot of people have no clue about the harmful toxins found under their sink and through out their home that they use everyday for cleaning their home. All those cleaning products we use on a daily basis such as, Air Fresheners, Carpet Cleaners, Bleach, Ammonia, Oven cleaners, Toilet Bowl Cleaners and Furniture Polish and many more are harming our children and pets without us knowing it. Many of us tend to think anything sold in a supermarket must be safe.. Many people use bleach to clean and disinfect sinks and toilets. Why shouldn't they? The bottle doesn't say how toxic it is! All the company cares about is making people think the product is great to kill germs as it does but it is also very harmful. Even after the smell is gone, its residual fumes linger in the air you breathe. Opening a window won't remove all of the fumes.

Airborne toxins aren't the only danger posed by household cleaners. Did you know the air inside most American homes is worse than the air outside? The Environmental Protection Agency estimates that indoor air pollutants may be 2 to 5 times higher than out of doors, and in some homes are as much as 100 times higher! What's more, 90% of all poisonings are a result of household toxins. The problem is the collection of cleaners under the average sink. Many cleaners give off volatile organic compounds (VOCs). Even when you keep bottles firmly closed and stored, the cleaners can often still exude VOCs into the air--fumes you and your children are breathing. VOCs have been implicated in everything from asthma and other respiratory problems to cancer. Children are at greatest risk, since they're both smaller than adults and are still growing. And that's not the only problem these chemicals can cause. Here is a rundown of some of the worst chemicals in common household cleaners and what you can use instead.

STEP 3: KNOW YOUR POISONS

Here are some great facts about household cleaning products found in many homes. Formaldehyde, phenol, benzene and toluene are found in common household cleaners. Children are highly vulnerable to chemical toxicants. Children are at more risk because children tend to put toys in their mouths and lie on the floor and so on, and they are ingesting more chemicals than an adult would. A pregnant woman can also pass the toxins to their unborn child! Children exposed in the womb are at greatest risk of all. The central nervous system is especially vulnerable. Scientists are currently investigating the possibility of a connection between fetal exposures to toxics and developmental disabilities such as ADD and ADHD disorder. Chemicals commonly found in homes have been linked to allergies, birth defects, cancer, skin reactions, headaches, depression, asthma, and so on.

Mothers that stay home with their children are at higher risk for getting any of these diseases because they are using cleaning products on a daily basis. Constant exposure to toxic chemicals in our food, air and water has been shown to lower our threshold of resistance to disease and alter the body's metabolism, causing nutritional deficiencies and hormonal imbalances, developmental disorders. We also know that toxins from cleaning products are suspect for incidents of Autism, ADHD, and ADD. In Fact an EPA Report to Congress stated that indoor air pollutions are one of the nation's most important environmental problems. According to the EPA most homes have airborne concentrations of hazardous chemicals that are two to five times higher than outdoors. Also we know that these chemical cleaning product increase allergies and affect our immune system.

STEP 4: UNDERSTAND THE DANGER

The chemical most frequently involved in household poisoning.

Chloride Bleach: Chloride bleach is very strongly corrosive. Its fumes alone can irritate or burn skin, eyes and lungs. If it's swallowed, it can cause vomiting or pulmonary edema--the filling of the lungs with fluid. Needless to say, don't store bleach near ammonia. Not only that, don't mix bleach with vinegar. It can trigger the release of toxic gas. Bleach is found all on its own, and in caustic drain cleaners. That's why you should NEVER NEVER NEVER use anything else in conjunction with a drain cleaner, or mix drain cleaners. If you use a drain cleaner, don't followup with a different one for at least 24 hours. Bleach does have a limited place in some households. If there is a person with a blood-borne communicable disease in your house, like HIV, very dilute bleach may be your best and safest bet for keeping others from becoming infected if there is a blood spill. But other than the fore mention bleach should not be in your home!

Formaldehyde: Formaldehyde is a known carcinogen. You know that weird smell new office carpet has? That's off-gassing, and what you're breathing in probably contains formaldehyde. Formaldehyde fumes can also trigger asthma attacks, headaches, and skin and eye irritation. In the home, formaldehyde is found as a preservative in air fresheners, spray starch, shampoos, deodorants and many other products. The problem is, it's not always listed as an ingredient. And sometimes it's listed as part of another ingredient or can contaminate another ingredient, like the sodium laureth sulfate commonly used in shampoos. The best advice for avoiding formaldehyde is, if you can't pronounce an ingredient, don't buy the product. Essential oil diffusers can be used instead of air fresheners, non-SLS shampoos are now commonly found (Dr. Bronner's castile soap makes fine shampoo, for instance, and is so useful around the house), and so are natural deodorants.

Ammonia: Ammonia is often found in all-purpose household cleaners. It's a very effective degreaser and glass cleaner. Unfortunately, its fumes are also highly irritating. Ammonia can cause severe eye irritation, headaches and lung damage. It's also extremely poisonous to fish and other aquatic life, even in dilute amounts. That means that any ammonia you put down the drain is poisoning the water around you. Ammonia poses an even greater danger when combined with other household chemicals. Combining ammonia and bleach, for example, creates ammonia gas, which can be fatal if breathed in. If you insist on using ammonia, only use it diluted with water. NEVER mix ANYTHING else with ammonia!

Carpet Cleaners: Contact with chemicals found in some carpet cleaners may cause irritation to the eyes, respiratory tract and skin. Carpet Cleaners may eliminate the stain in your carpet but also leave toxins in the carpet which you will breathe in.

Dishwashing Soap: Dishwashing products contain chlorine in a dry form that is highly concentrated. Each time you wash your dishes, some residue is left on them, which accumulates with each washing. Your food picks up part of the residue.

Oven Cleaner: One of the most toxic products people use in their homes. This contains lye and ammonia, which eat the skin, and the fumes linger and affect the respiratory system.

Laundry Detergent: Chemicals from laundry detergents are deposited on clothing and bed linens as they are washed.

Glass Cleaner: When you use glass cleaner and clean your windows and then your child sticks her mouth to the glass, as a lot of children do, imagine how many toxins she ingested.

Toilet Bowl Cleaner: Toilet bowl cleaners can be one of the most dangerous cleaning products. Can contain chlorine bleach and hydrochloric acid, Harmful to health, simply by breathing during use.

Step 5: DON'T BE FOOLED BY COMMERCIAL ADS

Hardly any of these substances have been tested for safety, but have been added to our food, water and cleaning products, and most often without informing us of any dangers.

STEP 6: PROTECT YOUR FAMILY BY STOP USING HARMFUL CHEMICALS

How do you protect your family from all the chemicals used in your home? First of all, Stop using them and find out what is safe to use in your home that won't harm your family. Look for products that Guarantee unconditional safety. Find out what test and how many test they run on their products. Do they test for heavy metals, pesticides, or any of ht hundreds of other harmful contaminants. Make sure they say no to: Parabens, Triclosan, Phthalates, Sodium Lauryl Sulfate (SLS), Sodium Lauryl Ether Sulfate (SLES), 1,4-Dioxane, Propylene Glycol, Volatile Organic Cleaning Compounds (VOCs), Hydrochloric Acid, Ammonia, Sodium Hydroxide, Butyl Cellosolve, Formaldehyde, Bisphenol-A, Petroleum Distillates, Toulene, Chlorine Bleach. Disposing of household chemicals. So now I've got you looking at those multi-hued bottles under the sink with a jaundiced eye. Let's get rid of them! you say. Great! But don't just toss them in the trash. Contact your local disposal company or government agency. Many of them have special toxin disposal days where you can bring your household chemicals and dispose of them safely. If you dispose of your own trash, NEVER burn used household cleaner containers, and don't bury half-used containers of stuff. Contact the manufacturer for safe disposal methods.

STEP 7: THE SOLUTION - THERE ARE SOLUTIONS!

There are alternative that work as well or better than what you are using now! We recommend green cleaning products here is why: Green cleaning products are safe. Find a green cleaning company that says it products are all natural.. Made sure they perform tests on every single ingredient for heavy metals, pesticides, or any of hundreds of other harmful contaminants. And that they continue to conduct quality test annually to guarantee the purity and safety of each and every product. Make sure the company says their products are 100% safe to use and guaranteed. Just Some of NO List: NO Parabens NO Triclosan NO Phthalates NO Sodium Lauryl Sulfate (SLS) NO Sodium Lauryl Ether Sulfate (SLES) NO 1,4-Dioxane NO Propylene Glycol NO Volatile Organic Cleaning Compounds (VOCs) NO Sodium Hydroxide NO Butyl Cellosolve NO Formaldehyde NO Bisphenol-A NO Petroleum Distillates NO Toulene NO Chlorine Bleach NO Banned Substances NO Hydrochloric Acid NO Ammonia.

Do the products use biodegradable cleaning agents, which means they break down easily instead of hanging out in the ground for hundreds of years? Also that they have no phosphates, borates, nitrates, or other stuff the planet doesn't appreciate. Are they super concentrated, and you add water so we can subtract waste? This has tons of implications. Literally. Less weight to ship. Less product to use. Less packaging to throw away. So you can get that clean feeling about your house, knowing you're keeping the planet clean, too.

YOU CAN MAKE A DIFFERENCE When you buy the green cleaners instead of the stuff you probably buy: You keep tons of packaging waste out of landfills You eliminate greenhouse gas emissions Green cleaners are safe for you, your home, and your planet.

Did you know that when you buy some common cleaners, a lot of what you're buying is water? Look for green cleaners that can make a more economical cleaner by making it concentrated. Learn more at http://www.livingwithsolutions.com

What's Lurking Under Your Sink?

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Making Liquid Bubble Bath Base Using the Hot-Process Method

!±8± Making Liquid Bubble Bath Base Using the Hot-Process Method

Many people are beginning to experience the rewards of making their own homemade bubble bath. The base ingredient for bubble bath is liquid soap, and liquid Castile soap is most commonly used for this purpose. ("Castile soap" is a term which originally referred to soap made from olive oil, but it is now used to refer to pretty much any soap made from vegetable oil as opposed to animal fats.) You can purchase liquid Castile soap, or if you are feeling up to a slight challenge, you can experience the satisfaction of making your own liquid soap.

Liquid Castile soap can be made via either the cold-process or hot-process method. Many soap-makers prefer the hot process method because it is much quicker, and after three to four hours of "cooking" the soap in a crock pot, it is completely saponified, whereas the cold-process method requires the soap to be cured for six to eight weeks before the saponification process is complete. (Saponification is the process by which lye chemically reacts with water and oil to make soap.)

Of the two varieties of lye, potassium hydroxide lye is favored by most soap-makers for liquid soap, because the soap yielded by this compound is softer and easier to melt than soap made with sodium hydroxide lye.

To make liquid Castile soap via the hot-process method, mix the oils and lye just as you would if you were making cold-process soap, and blend until the mixture reaches trace. Be patient - this may take a while, and when trace is reached the batter may be thinner than it normally would be. This is a normal result of using the potassium hydroxide lye, instead of sodium hydroxide.

When the soap batter does reach trace, start cooking it in a double-boiler or crock pot, over low to medium heat, for three to four hours. The mixture will go through many stages, during the last of which is will be translucent and creamy.

To see if the liquid soap is done, mix one ounce of the soap with two ounces of boiling water. If the mixture is clear, or only slightly cloudy, then the soap is done, but if it is milky or very cloudy, the soap needs to cook longer. (If cooking longer doesn't solve the problem, then one of your ingredients may have been measured improperly prior to starting the process.)

Consider adding a preservative, such as grapefruit seed extract or vitamin E, to your liquid soap when it is done cooking, and prior to packaging it, as liquid soap is more prone to spoilage than bar soap. At this point, the liquid soap is ready to be incorporated into your liquid bubble bath recipe.

Buying ready-made liquid Castile soap, such as Dr. Bronner's, is certainly an option, and is often chosen by people who aren't inclined to make their own for whatever reason.

However, if you do choose to make your own liquid bubble bath base from scratch, you will enjoy a sense of accomplishment, and have a greater degree of control over your ingredients and the customization of your soap.

Making Liquid Bubble Bath Base Using the Hot-Process Method

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Dr Bronner's and Jason Review

!±8± Dr Bronner's and Jason Review

This Is My Review For Dr. Bronner's Magic Soap and Jason's Natural Lavender Shampoo and Conditioner Music: Pretty Wings-Maxwell

Dr Bronner's and Jason Review

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